If you intend doing a lot of trail riding or long hours in the saddle, you may opt for a Western or Stock saddle, as they will spread your weight more evenly over your horse than an English saddle where the centre of balance is more concentrated. Both these saddles will give you more support and extra ‘hold’ also, due to their higher front and back (pommel and cantel). An English saddle is almost a minimalist saddle that allows you lots of close contact with your horse through your seat and legs in order to communicate more fluently and subtly. Although you can certainly trail ride in them, they were designed for freedom of movement and contact, not rider support.
Saddles should fit your horse well if you want your horse to perform at his best over many years. An ill-fitting saddle can cause your horse to break down prematurely as well as cause behavioural problems like kicking and bucking. It can pinch backs and inhibit your horse’s performance by not allowing him to move freely. Be sure that your saddle doesn’t have too much rock from front to back when it is sitting on your horse, that the shoulders can move freely, that the gullet is neither too narrow nor too wide and that there is enough height in the gullet for your horse’s back to lift and move as he is in motion. A saddle must fit when your horse moves as well as when he stands still. Your QS instructor or agent can help you ensure your saddle fits well.
Your saddle pad should be of a fabric that breathes so as not to cause skin ailments. Preferably something washable and easy to clean; a natural fibre is best. It should be thick enough to provide some padding without being so thick that it acts like a wedge and inhibits movement. Try pinching your fingertips together through your pad. You should be able to just feel your fingernails slightly. You should never use your pad or extra padding to cover up an ill-fitting saddle. The problem will still be there and chances are you are only compounding the issue.
When choosing or putting together a foundation bridle, there are a couple of things to consider. Your reins should be made of rope that has a live feel and allows phases and a quick release as with your other lead ropes. Leather reins were designed for grip, the exact opposite to what you need in order to develop softness and lightness in your hands and horse. Your reins attach to your bit via rein leathers, that are weighted pieces of leather that act as phases when picking up the reins, and as a counter balance when releasing them. Their weight and length is important to give you consistent phases and feel. Too light and they’re useless … too heavy and they will dull your horse.
The bit should be made of sweet iron that can rust and taste great to the horse. Copper inlays will provide salivation and further ad to your horse’s positive experience of the bit. A loose ring will give you more phases … so important to a soft, willing horse. At this level we use a jointed snaffle, which was designed for lateral flexion; that is, only one active rein at a time. If you pull on two reins, the bit will ’scissor’ in your horse’s mouth and cause him pain. Make sure you use a chin strap with a snaffle bit so it doesn’t pull through his mouth. It doesn’t really matter what type of head-stall you use, as long as the leather is good quality and well stitched. A brow band and throat-latch that slide are a great option as they allow you to make small adjustments to the bit and head stall to ensure they fit well. The bit should hang low enough in your horse’s mouth that he can pick it up and put it comfortably where he needs it but not so long that he can push it out of his mouth. Neither do you want it jammed up in his mouth causing his skin to wrinkle where he has no options. It’s a great idea to have an Equine Orthodontist look at your horse’s teeth before you begin riding in a bridle.
Take care of your gear and choose your tools wisely. You’ll have a happier horse for a lot longer if you do.
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- By Meredith Ransley, Quantum Savvy.